Your dogs are fighting each other
Dogs fighting
Fighting is active aggression within a pack, between dogs that share a household or a territory. Dog fights inside your own pack at home can be extremely dangerous. Fights between pack members are usually related to social hierarchy, or to defensive drives that have been channeled into civil aggression.
Maybe you saw it start as a scuffle over a bone that you broke up and thought little of. Then a snarl in the hallway, then a scrap at the door when you came home. Then came the one that didn't stop — the noise, the blood, the vet bill, and a bite on your own hand from pulling them apart.
Now you live in shifts. Gates up, one crated, one out, feeding in separate rooms, watching the body language every time they pass each other. You can't leave them alone in the house, and you can't relax in it either. You know how exhausting the routine is.
What are you searching for? You don't have to read the rest to get started.
Get StartedTaught by Garrett Ridley — twenty years of dogs, and he wrote the book the training runs on.
Why are your dogs fighting?
Start with what set it off. A fight over a chew is possession. A fight over a bed, a doorway, or a spot on the couch is territory. A dog that can't get to what it wants builds frustration, and that frustration explodes onto the dog next to it as redirected aggression.
But the trigger is only the surface, and the triggers are countless. Underneath all of them sit four drives: prey, social, civil, and defense. Possession and territory usually come up out of defense, and defense is rooted in fear — the dog believes it has something to lose and something to protect. Name the trigger and you know what set it off. Name the drive and you know how to fix it.
We typically see fighting in homes where the dogs were left to work out social hierarchy on their own. The structure is unclear, defense turns into offense, and fight drive gets reinforced. Every fight teaches both dogs — the winner learns it works, the loser learns to go first next time. That's how fights that started at a pinch point become fights on sight.
One warning worth saying out loud: people get bitten breaking up dog fights. Your hands don't belong in there.
How we stop the fighting
We read both dogs and the structure they live in, then we rebuild the household so the fights stop being possible.
First a temperament evaluation — drives, disposition, engagement, and the triggers behind the fights. This is one place where a single dog can't be read in isolation. What matters is what these two dogs are to each other and where in your house it's breaking down.
Then your dogs get a map. We start with trust and relationship building, then the reward mark, engagement, and leash yielding, because a dog that won't engage with you can't be recalled out of a fight that's building. The control commands come next, then chapter 40 itself, matched to the triggers your dogs actually have. Alongside it comes household structure — who goes through doors, where dogs eat, where they rest, and what gets decided by you instead of by them.
Some households get back to dogs that live loose together. Others stay on a management plan for good. The evaluation is what tells us plainly which one you have.
Fighting is managed, controlled, and replaced with a settled rank order and positive social order conditioned over time. The finished picture is a household with clear structure, a handler who sees it building and interrupts before it starts, and two dogs that can be around each other safely.
20+ years · author of Building A Solid Canine · every dog is evaluated first
Three ways to start.
And the first one is just watching. No pressure, no dog to bring.
General Admission
$50
The lecture, no dog.
Come learn the system. Stay after lunch and watch the evaluations, or head home. Garrett teaches the Foundation — what drives your dog and how training is actually built — then reads dogs live in front of the room. No dog of your own to handle, nothing to manage, just the day and a notepad.
Placerville, CA. The workbook is optional — $50 at the table if you want one.
Working Evaluation
$200
The full Saturday, and your dog is evaluated live by Garrett.
Everything in the lecture, and then you work your dog in a small group with Garrett coaching — what drives him, what kind of dog he is, and your first handling skills with your own hands on the leash. You leave with your dog's training map in writing.
Comes with it:
- The printed workbook
- The full digital book
- Your dog's report and week-one homework on your free owner account
Every dog is evaluated first. All dogs welcome with accurate disclosure, including dogs with a bite history. One adult handler and one dog per spot. Placerville, CA.
In-Home Session
$400
Two hours at your house, built around your dog.
Garrett comes to you, evaluates your dog where the problem actually lives, builds the training map, and teaches you the work with you holding the leash. Everything in the Working Evaluation comes with it.
We book in-home by phone so we can ask about your dog first.
Tuesdays and Thursdays, within fifty miles of Placerville.
Evaluation seats close the Wednesday before at 9 PM. Open General Admission seats, up until Friday at 9 PM. Twenty evaluation spots per date. All sales are final.